Santa Margherita Ligure: a Complete Guide to Portofino’s Lesser-Known Neighbor
Just 5 kilometers from ritzy Portofino sits Santa Margherita Ligure, a small but vibrant seaside resort town. It has all the beauty and charm of its more famous neighbor – but without the drain on your wallet.
In our opinion, “Santa” (as it’s affectionately known among locals) is one of the best hidden gems along the Italian Riviera. It boasts one of the only sandy beaches in the vicinity, as well as an extensive waterfront promenade, lovely shops and al fresco dining, convenient proximity to numerous day trips (including the famed Cinque Terre), and a buzzy old town that comes alive in the evening.
It all adds up to what is, quite frankly, a more spirited atmosphere than Portofino, whose exorbitant costs have priced out most travelers. While Portofino’s iconic luxury remains one of a kind, if it’s fun seaside vibes and a lively environment that you seek, you won’t regret basing your Ligurian getaway out of Santa Margherita.
This guide spotlights the best things to do in Santa Margherita Ligure, to make the most of your time in one of Liguria’s best kept secrets.
Jump to:
- Idle Over a Languid Beach Day
- Pick Up Fresh Catch at the Daily Fish Market
- Tour the Opulent Basilica di Santa Margherita
- Savor Dreamy Coastal Views at Cervara Abbey
- Go for a Hike in Portofino Regional Park
- Visit the Plush Villa Durazzo and Gardens
- Climb the Walls of Santa Margherita Castle
- Enjoy Aperitivo Hour in the Medieval Old Town
- Sample the Posh Life in Portofino
- Explore Ancient San Fruttuoso Abbey
- Day Trip to Cinque Terre
- Kayak, Paddle Board, or Snorkel the Ligurian Sea
Idle Over a Languid Beach Day
Santa Margherita Ligure is, if anything, a beach town. All roads lead to Santa Margherita’s focal point, an expansive kilometer-long promenade along its crescent-shaped seashore.
It’s one of the few sandy beaches in the area, and the vast majority of the beach is free public access (unlike Portofino’s Paraggi Beach, where an umbrella rental can set you back €200 a day).
Swimming here is great for all ages, thanks to a protective promontory on the north side and sheltered marina on the south. They shield the beach from the open sea, and ensure calm waters.
Pick Up Fresh Catch at the Daily Fish Market
Santa Margherita Ligure has been a seafaring town for centuries, and few things remain as timeless as its daily fish market.
Every morning (unless it’s a holiday or bad weather), local fishermen return from the sea and unload their fresh catch upon the docks. While local restaurants and wholesalers receive priority, the public is also welcome to shop the day’s offerings.
Even if you’re not looking to buy, it’s still a wonderful experience to glimpse a little sliver of local life.
The market is open until approximately noon each day, but it’s advisable to get there as early as you can, for the best selection and full experience. Mercato Pesce is located at Corso Guglielmo Marconi 6A (directions).
Tour the Opulent Basilica di Santa Margherita
The historic heart of any Italian town is its church, and the gilded Basilica di Santa Margherita is particularly stunning.
This Baroque gem was constructed in the 1600s on the site of an older house of worship. Continual enhancements have been made in the succeeding centuries, including a second bell tower added as recently as 1920.
While it won’t take long to tour the interior, it’s a magnificent example of period architecture and worth the trip. The church is located just one block off the waterfront (directions).
Savor Dreamy Coastal Views at Cervara Abbey
Cervara Abbey, perched high above the road between Santa Margherita Ligure and Portofino, feels like a veritable Eden. While the sanctuary is equally lovely, it’s the gardens that feel like a true sliver of heaven on earth.
Originally built in the 14th century, Cervara’s gardens overlook the Ligurian Sea, with coastline stretching to the horizon. Today, they remain the only bona fide Italian Renaissance style garden along the Italian Riviera.
From every corner, the swoon-worthy views appear straight out of a glossy travel magazine. (It’s no wonder Cervara Abbey is now a sought-after locale for high-end weddings).
Both the abbey and its gardens are open to the public for guided tours. You can learn more at the Cervara website, including contact info for booking a tour.
Go for a Hike in Portofino Regional Park
Portofino Regional Park stretches from Santa Margherita Ligure in the east to Camogli in the west, covering 18 square kilometers of natural woodland.
With numerous varieties of flora and fauna unique to Liguria, the Italian government designated the park a protected reserve in 1935, to safeguard it for future generations to enjoy.
Today, you can ramble along over 80 km of trails within the park boundaries, dipping into cool forests and along sweeping ridgelines with views up and down the coast. You may even stumble upon the medieval chapels and abbeys, ancient water mills, and WWII coastal batteries tucked into its hillsides.
There is something for everyone within Portofino Regional Park, so it’s best to explore the website and determine what is of most interest to you. You’ll find trail maps, recommended itineraries, guided excursions, and more.
Visit the Plush Villa Durazzo and Gardens
Villa Durazzo, nestled into a hillside above Santa Margherita, is a grand former summer residence dating back to the 1600s.
Opened to the public in the 1970s, the villa has been meticulously restored to its original era. Period furnishings and paintings provide a fascinating glimpse into Santa Margherita of the 17th century.
However, Villa Durazzo’s crown jewel is its gardens, which cover three hectares overlooking the sea and are regularly named among the lists of “Great Italian Gardens.”
There is also a coffee shop overlooking the gardens, from which to enjoy this serene little hideaway.
Tickets to tour the villa cost €5.50, and you can also join a guided tour. The gardens have free admission. Learn more at the Villa Durazzo website.
Climb the Walls of Santa Margherita Castle
Santa Margherita’s imposing castello was built in the 16th century to defend against the Barbary pirates, and it still remains an iconic city landmark.
While it’s not open for daily tours, it does open regularly for exhibits, art shows, and other special events. You can check Santa Margherita’s official city webpage to view upcoming events during your visit.
In the meantime, enjoy climbing up to the castle walls, which offer a commanding view of the sweeping Ligurian coastline. It’s especially stunning in the evening around sunset.
Enjoy Aperitivo Hour in the Medieval Old Town
Santa Margherita Ligure has a lively centro, where tall, cheerfully-painted shops and residences tightly pack a town center that has remained unchanged for centuries.
Especially in the evenings, the town comes alive as locals and tourists alike mingle over aperitivi, spilling out from the numerous al fresco restaurants and cafes onto the sidewalks beyond.
Enjoy aimlessly strolling the old quarter and see where the evening takes you – you’re bound to have a memorable encounter or two.
One of our personal favorite aperitivo spots is Vernissage, an indoor-outdoor bar with a healthy contingent of locals. It sits in the shadow of Santa Margherita’s castle, with comfy outdoor cushions lining the pedestrian pathway overlooking the harbor. Vernissage is a great spot to post up and savor sunset over a gin and tonic or glass of local Ligurian wine (directions).
Sample the Posh Life in Portofino
Portofino is just 5 km down the road, thus offering an easy jaunt to Santa Margherita Ligure’s world-famous neighbor.
Once in town, enjoy ambling through the quaint pedestrian streets, popping into posh boutiques, people-watching along the scenic waterfront promenade, or perhaps climbing the hill to stunning views at Castello Brown or the Portofino lighthouse.
You can explore our guide of things to do in Portofino for more ideas of how to spend a day in this luxe resort town.
Getting to Portofino
From Santa Margherita, you can either walk, take the 782-line bus, taxi, or catch the Traghetto ferry (line 1).
Note: there are minor drawbacks to each mode of transportation, so consider what’s best for you:
- Walking: while easy and flat, it’s also along the main autostrada between towns. While we can’t officially endorse walking along the shoulder, many people do it.
- Bus: buses can run infrequently during off season, and don’t always follow their scheduled timetable.
- Taxi: taxis charge a flat rate of €40 (!) both in and out of Portofino.
- Ferry: the ferry only runs during daytime until 15:00 – 17:00 each afternoon, depending on the season.
Explore Ancient San Fruttuoso Abbey
San Fruttuoso Abbey, tucked into a dreamy little bay outside of Camogli, is one of the more popular day trips along the peninsula.
The stone structure dates back to 986 AD, and you can tour both the abbey and grounds for just €9. Tickets can be purchased here.
However, San Fruttuoso owes its enduring popularity to its protected shoreline, which creates one of the most popular beaches in the area.
Beach access is free, and amenities include a few local restaurants lining the waterfront. You’ll find plenty of regional dishes, along with coffee and drinks, served under their protected awnings.
Additionally, San Fruttuoso’s calm waters, sheltered from the Ligurian Sea, are warm enough for a swim almost year-round.
To reach San Fruttuoso from Santa Margherita Ligure, take the Traghetto ferry (line 1) from Santa Margherita’s harbor.
If you want more adventure, you can also hike to San Fruttuoso. The trail cuts through Portofino Regional Park, and is a lovely blend of both shaded forest and expansive coastal views.
Hiking from Santa Margherita is 8.5 km one way. However, you can also hike in and take the ferry back, or take the ferry to Portofino and walk the remaining 5 km from there.
Day Trip to Cinque Terre
Dreamy Cinque Terre, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that has seen a resurgence in popularity the past few decades, is tantalizingly close. With direct 1-hour train routes from Santa Margherita Ligure, it makes for an easy day trip.
The local train runs regularly between the five Cinque Terre villages, so once you arrive it’s easy to hop on and off, exploring each town at your leisure.
Hiking between towns is also one of the more popular activities in Cinque Terre. It’s approximately 1 km between each village, and the footpath that connects them affords breathtaking views of the sweeping Ligurian coastline.
During the summer months, you can also take the Traghetto ferry (line 4) from Santa Margherita. The ferry stops for 3 hours at Monterosso al Mare and 1 hour at Riomaggiore, providing a lovely glimpse into Cinque Terre’s most northern and southern towns without any additional planning on your part.
You can learn more about Traghetto line 4 to Cinque Terre, including timetables and buying tickets, here.
Kayak, Paddle Board, or Snorkel the Ligurian Sea
For a more active water adventure, head to Paraggi beach and Niasca Bay, where Outdoor Portofino rents kayaks, paddleboards, and snorkel equipment by the hour or day.
Here, the protected cove creates an ideal environment to explore the aquamarine waters of the Ligurian Sea. Swells are calm enough to enjoy kayaking or paddle boarding above the water, or snorkeling below it.
Niasca Bay is also a protected marine refuge, and snorkeling presents the opportunity to witness the region’s incredible aquatic biodiversity up close.
Learn more on the Outdoor Portofino website.
