The 14 Best (Mostly Free!) Things to Do in Portofino
Last Updated: March 21, 2025
Portofino, situated along the Italian Riviera, is the embodiment of la dolce vita. This posh seaside resort is the jewel of the Ligurian coast, and has been Italy’s most exclusive vacation destination for 200 years. However, you don’t have to be rich or famous to enjoy its many charms. This guide spotlights the best things to do in Portofino and its environs (most of which are free!).
After a day or two in captivating Portofino, you’ll be sure to fall under its spell.
Jump to:
- Take a Passeggiata Along the Waterfront
- Visit the Famous Castello Brown
- See Portofino from the Water
- Enjoy a Beach Day
- Catch Panoramic Views from the Portofino Lighthouse
- Snap a Picture at Portofino’s Prime Photo Spots
- Eat Focaccia in Its Birthplace
- Hike or Boat to San Fruttuosto Abbey
- Savor Aperitivo Hour at the Hotel Splendido
- Duck into the Serene Church of St. Martin
- Meander Through Portofino Regional Park
- Spend an Evening in Santa Margherita
- Visit a Neighboring Village
- Day Trip to Cinque Terre
Take a Passeggiata Along the Waterfront
Portofino itself is very compact. The town sits in the middle of a protected U-shaped bay, with pedestrian paths emanating out in either direction.
Start at Piazza Martiri dell’Olivetta, both the physical and symbolic heart of Portofino, before venturing outwards along the waterfront.
You can cover the entire “U” in a leisurely 20-30 minute stroll. But with so many charming side streets and enticing footpaths stretching uphill, it’s easy to extend your passeggiata further.
For a longer walk, you can either wind up towards Castello Brown, or connect onto the Strada Provinciale 227 above Portofino.
The Strada is the main thoroughfare outside of Portofino, and while we can’t legally endorsewalking along it… many people make it a pedestrian option (just be safe and hug the far shoulder of the road).
Visit the Famous Castello Brown
Castello Brown has dominated the landscape above Portofino since the 16th century, although its full history dates back to Roman times.
After it was abandoned in the early 1800s, an Englishman purchased it and turned it into his plush vacation home. In the 1960s, the castle opened to the public and is now available to tour.
Castello Brown owes much of its enduring fame to Elizabeth von Arnim, who wrote her classic novel The Enchanted April on-site and made it the setting of her fictitious work. The book’s 1990s film adaptation was also filmed here, encouraging new generations of fans to flock to the iconic locale.
See Portofino From the Water
The Italian Riviera is made to be seen from the water, and is one of the most iconic things to do in Portofino. Up and down the coastline, cheerfully-painted pastel homes and villas rise above sparkling azure waters, creating postcard-perfect views.
One of the easiest (and cheapest) ways to cruise the coastline is via the Traghetti Portofino ferry, which runs regularly between Portofino and neighboring towns. You’ll get identical views to the luxury yachts cruising the same corridor, but for just €20 (give or take) roundtrip.
Make a little day trip of it, and venture to one of Portofino’s neighboring towns. You can read more on Santa Margherita, San Fruttuoso, and Sestri Levante/Camogli below.
View timetables, fares, and buy tickets at the Traghetti Portofino website.
Enjoy a Beach Day
There is no swimming in the little harbor lining the town piazza. However, you can easily dip your toes just outside of Portofino.
The town’s “official” beach is Paraggi Beach, tucked into a small, protected inlet 1.6 km from town. Much of the sandy shore has been privatized by expensive day clubs, who charge an appalling €200 per day for an umbrella and chair.
However, there is a small spit of public beach on Paraggi (follow the directions to “spiaggia pubblica” on Google Maps). Additionally, further towards the point is a series of metal stairs leading down to the rocky coastline. It’s a secluded slice of heaven, without the cost (directions). Just remember to bring a towel.
3 km beyond Paraggi is the bustling town of Santa Margherita, which has an expansive shoreline ideal for swimming and sunbathing. You can read more about Santa Margherita and how to get there below.
A third lovely swimming spot is at the thousand-year-old San Fruttuoso Abbey, which sits along a sheltered little bay north of Portofino (more on that below). There is no beach fee here, and the calm waters are ideal for swimmers of all ages.
You can reach San Fruttuoso either by a 5 km hike from Portofino, or take the Traghetto ferry (lines 1 or 2).
Catch Panoramic Views from the Portofino Lighthouse
Just a 1 km walk from Portofino’s main piazza are sweeping views of the entire Ligurian coastline, all the way to Cinque Terre.
Known as Faro di Portofino, the lighthouse also has an al fresco bar on site. It’s an opportune spot to post up and admire the stunning Italian Riviera panoramas over a drink or snack.
To reach the lighthouse, you’ll first have a quick uphill burst to reach the Chiesa di San Giorgio. From here, the paved trail meanders pleasantly along shaded footpaths for about 0.8 km before dipping slightly to the lighthouse at land’s end.
Snap a Picture at Portofino’s Prime Photo Spots
Portofino is arguably one of the most photogenic villages in Italy, and there are multiple spots to capture the iconic photo ops.
Below are a few of our favorites, along with directions.
- Portofino from the waterfront: head southeast along the promenade to the far side, below Castello Brown. This provides a prime view looking back towards the town and waterfront. It’s labeled “punto panoramico” on Google Maps (directions).
- Portofino from above: the best viewpoints are from the Chiesa di San Giorgio and surrounding footpaths. Not only will you attain a bird’s eye view of the vibrant harbor and its pastel rooftops, but the panorama extends to the luxe villas above town and the distant hills of the Ligurian peninsula (directions).
- Villa Valdamari Mondadori: this canary-yellow villa, rising directly above the sea, is one of the dreamiest villas along the coastline. If you capture a photo as the sun rises in the early morning, Valdamari appears almost otherworldly. The best angle is from across Baia Cannone (directions).
For the best photos, go early in the morning when the light is soft (just at sunrise, or 15-20 minutes before).
Eat Focaccia in Its Birthplace
Chewy, delectable focaccia bread originated in Liguria, and sampling the regional specialty in its homeland is one of the essential things to do in Portofino.
In Portofino proper, there are two bakeries serving up fresh take-away focaccia. Antica Forneria di Recco is closer to the waterfront (directions), or you can head to Panificio Canale a few blocks up Via Roma (directions).
We found the focaccia at Panificio Canale to be wonderfully doughy inside, with a satisfyingly crisp crust. It was good enough to return again the next day, and make our own take-away sandwiches to enjoy at the beach.
Hike or Boat to San Fruttuosto Abbey
A little day trip to San Fruttuosto Abbey is one of the most popular things to do in Portofino. The serene 10th century abbey was built along the shore of a protected bay, and remains inaccessible by road.
To reach San Fruttuosto from Portofino, you can either take the Traghetto ferry (lines 1 or 2), or hike the 5 km (each way) footpath.
If you choose to hike, know that the first kilometer is a blistering uphill climb, before the path levels off. The remainder of the trail meanders along ridge lines overlooking the Ligurian Sea, skirting hilltop vineyards and dipping into cool forest.
Once you reach San Fruttuosto, you can tour the thousand-year-old abbey, or simply enjoy a beach day.
The beach is free to the public, and the calm waters of the protected bay provide an easy, refreshing swim for all ages. There are also a few restaurants dotting the shoreline, for when your swimming and sunbathing work up an appetite.
Abbey tickets are €9; you can purchase them here.
Savor Aperitivo Hour at the Hotel Splendido
Splendido is arguably the most iconic hotel, in a town known for opulent vacations of the rich and famous.
The structure itself was originally a Benedictine monastery, before being abandoned in the 16th century. It opened as the luxurious Hotel Splendido in 1902, and has hosted royalty and celebrities alike ever since.
(Winston Churchill, Grace Kelly, Clark Gable, Charlie Chaplin, and Walt Disney are just a few guests who have enjoyed its amenities over the years).
However, you can still enjoy the hotel’s A-list experience without the accompanying price tag. Visit Splendido’s La Terrazza Bar, and savor sumptuous views of Portofino Harbor over an aperitivo.
You can explore the hotel’s various restaurants and affiliated menus here.
Duck into the Serene Church of St. Martin
This charming little village church, just uphill from the harbor, will be a quick stop. Still, it’s a delightful little glimpse into Portofino’s past, before it grew into the lavish vacation destination that it is today.
San Martino (St. Martin) was constructed in the 11th century, as a place of worship for the humble fishing village. You’ll find odes to the town’s water-centric lifestyle throughout the Romanesque church, including bright seascape mosaics decorating the entryway.
Enjoy a quiet moment in this serene little haven, before continuing on your way.
Meander Through Portofino Regional Park
Portofino Regional Park covers a vast swath of land along the peninsula, stretching from Santa Margherita in the east to Camogli in the west. The park has been a protected area since 1935, and offers over 80 km of trails to explore.
Paths ramble through shaded woodlands and along sweeping coastal panoramas, highlighting the extensive variety of flora and fauna unique to this little corner of the world.
You’ll also find plenty of human history within its borders, with multiple medieval chapels, ancient water mills, and WWII coastal batteries tucked into its hillsides.
There is something for everyone within Portofino Regional Park, so it’s best to explore the website and determine what is of most interest to you. You’ll find trail maps, recommended itineraries, guided excursions, and more.
Spend an Evening in Santa Margherita
Just 5 km up the road is Santa Margherita – Portofino’s “middle class” counterpart and, in our opinion, a vibrant hidden gem that deserves to emerge from the shadow of its more famous neighbor.
The exclusivity of Portofino causes the town to quiet dramatically in the evenings, as day-trippers go home and only those who can afford to stay in the ritzy town linger past dusk.
Conversely, Santa Margherita comes alive at night, as locals and tourists alike mingle over aperitivi, spilling out of restaurants and onto the town’s piazze.
Head to Santa Margherita in the late afternoon and enjoy wandering its alluring promenades and medieval streets, popping into its many boutiques or savoring a gelato in one of the squares, before catching a buzzy aperitivo or dinner.
To reach Santa Margherita from Portofino, you can either take the 782 line bus, call a taxi, or walk.
Just know that the bus can run infrequently off season, and taxis charge a flat rate of €40 (!) in and out of Portofino. While we can’t officially endorse walking along the autostrada from Portofino, many people do it and it’s an easy 5 km walk. Just be smart and only go during day light hours, paying close attention to the traffic.
If you visit Santa Margherita during the day, you can also catch the Traghetto ferry (line 1) from Portofino, but the last trip is around 15:00 – 17:00 each afternoon, depending on the season.
Visit a Neighboring Village
Liguria has been a seafaring hub for millennia, and you’ll still find plenty of charming little fishing villages dotting the coastline. Visiting a neighboring town makes a delightful day trip from Portofino, to broaden your familiarity of the region beyond just the high-end glamor of its most famous destination.
Two of the most popular (and accessible) towns from Portofino include Sestri Levante and Camogli.
Sestri Levante
Sestri Levante is the most accessible village from Portofino, with direct ferry access via Traghetto line 2.
The town itself is not huge, but sits on a lovely crescent-shaped bay that is heavenly for a day of swimming and sunbathing.
After you’ve had your fill of the sea, dry off and enjoy meandering the medieval old town. Most of the restaurants lining the waterfront serve traditional Ligurian cuisine, including the day’s fresh haul of local seafood.
Camogli
Avid hikers may enjoy trekking to Camogli (7 km from Portofino, one way). The trail winds along scenic ridgelines and dips into old forest, even passing San Fruttuoso Abbey (above) on the way.
Once in Camogli, enjoy the stunning waterfront promenade and sparkling waters of Camogli beach.
For a taste of the local history, you can either pop into the Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta or explore the stone walls of the 11th century Castello della Dragonara, perched high above the sea.
To reach Camogli from Portofino, you can either hike, grab a taxi, take public transit, or go by ferry.
If you opt for public transit, you’ll catch the #82 bus to Santa Margherita, then ride the regional train 10 minutes to Camogli-San Fruttuoso.
For the ferry, take Traghetto lines 1 or 2 to San Fruttuoso. Then, transfer to the Golfo Paradiso line to Camogli.
Day Trip to Cinque Terre
Cinque Terre, Italy’s dreamy string of five seaside villages tucked into the hills of Liguria, is easily accessible from Portofino.
You can reach this national park and UNESCO World Heritage Site either by public transit (70 – 90 minutes each way). Or, during the summer, via Traghetto ferry (line 4, connecting through Santa Margherita).
The Traghetto ferry tour includes a 3-hour visit to Monterosso and a 1-hour stop in Riomaggiore.
Once you reach Cinque Terre, it’s easy to hop between villages via the regional train. Trains run regularly and stop at each village from north to south: Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore.
Each town has its own unique attributes and highlights, to choose the vibe that’s right for you:
- Monterosso al Mare: the largest of the five towns, with the most amenities (and Cinque Terre’s only sandy beach).
- Vernazza: arguably the most picturesque village. The iconic image of Cinque Terre (looking down to Vernazza’s small harbor) is on the trail just north of town, and worth the trek for the famous photo.
- Corniglia: built into the hills above the coastline, Corniglia is the only town without beach access. As a result, Corniglia has a unique charm that’s different from the rest of the villages, with pedestrian paths winding along narrow lanes.
- Manarola: a similar alternative to Vernazza, you’ll find pastel-colored homes rising vertically from Manarola’s small harbor. Cliff jumping into the sea provides ample people-watching here.
- Riomaggiore: Riomaggiore is the village with the most nightlife, and often attracts a younger set than the other towns. Granted, “nightlife” is somewhat relative in Cinque Terre, but if you’re looking for a bar or two from which to enjoy a drink as you watch the sun sinking over the Ligurian Sea – Riomaggiore is a good bet.
Featured image credit Nan Palmero.
